Sunday, August 7, 2011

Spritzenhaus

Spritzenhaus
33 Nassau Ave
(between Berry St & 14th St)

Spritzenhaus may be one of the most misunderstood drinking establishments in the better borough of Brooklyn, by both its customers and owners.

Contrary to recent reviews, Spritzenhaus has a solid draft and beer selection, more comprehensive and eclectic than the more popular Bohemian Beer Hall and Studio Square in Queens, Berry Park in Brooklyn, and Loreley in Manhattan.

German lagers are the focus point of the "Spritzen" in Spritzenhaus: besides your Weihenstephaners Weizen, Spatens Pils, and Goffel Kolsch on tap, there is Hofstetten Kubelbier Kellerbier, Einbecker Mai-Ur-Bock, and Schlenkerla Marzen, selections only available at dedicated beer programs at restaurants.

The Teutonic-ness further extends to their German bottle list, with hard-to-find stateside labels like Arcobrau, Reltberger Kloster, and Schoenramer making appearances in several styles.

If you decide to ante up, there are some stars (albeit pricey ones) on the beer menu: Del Borgo Reale ($38), Etienne Dupont Bouche Brut de Normandie ($38), Saint Bon de Chien Biere de Garde ($55).

What Spritzenhaus gets fundamentally wrong is its connection to its neighborhood. A 6,000 sq. ft., Keith McNally-esque bierhall couldn't help but be looked at with skepticism by the Greenpoint locals, despite the obvious effort put into the project.

Most popular (not necessarily equatable with good) beer halls have built their locations with their neighborhood demographics in mind: Studio Square reflects the aspirant douchiness of Long Island City, Bohemian Beer Hall embodies the Eastern European history of Queens, and Berry Park and Radegast capture the lo-fi, communal drinking of Greenpoint and Williamsburg. In terms of the owners, what lead them to plonk money into a project where there are already two other fairly decent competitors in the area is beyond me. Spritzenhaus will definitely not serve as Harvard Businesss School case study material anytime soon.

Unfortunately, Spritzenhaus will be remembered not for its aspiring German beer program, but a wary reminder of the most important tenet of Real Estate 101: choose your location carefully.

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