Rosenthal Wine Merchants

Rosenthal Wine Merchants
318 E 84th Street
New York, NY 10028

For wine aficionados everywhere (including myself), there were inevitably two books that induced the wine bug: Kermit Lynch's "Adventures on the Wine Route" and Neal Rosenthal's "Reflections of a Wine Merchant". Both told the stories of wine explorers searching Europe for wines that express a particular terroir and philosophy of winemaking.

Rosenthal Wine Merchants specializes exclusively in European wines, predominantly France and Italy. The absence of foot-traffic is misleading: the store does a brisk business from numerous wholesale and individual orders from those who know that a Rosenthal label on the back of a wine bottle (rather than a Yellow Tail on the front) indicates sterling quality.

As a forewarning, this is not a wine store for novices. The store has rather inconvenient hours (Tuesday - Saturday; 10-6 or 10-7pm). Regions are not delineated, prices aren't marked, and there are no tasting notes to be found. However, there are gems to be found under $30 with some diligent perusing: a Lucien Crochet Sancerre, a De Forville Langhe Nebbiolo, or a Jacques Puffeney Arbois.

It is worth taking a trip and meeting Will, the proprietor of this hidden retail location on 84th St. A business acquaintance from the late 70s, Will has a commanding knowledge of Rosenthal Wine Merchant's inventory and almost every vintage of Burgundy and Piedmont. For someone who has been in the business for nearly 40 years, Will bequeathed some useful advice regarding wine: there are no shortcuts for gaining experience.