The Milton Inn

The Milton Inn / 14833 Sparks Rd. / Sparks, MD 21152

The Milton Inn was constructed as an actual inn around 1740, and the fieldstone building was later converted into a restaurant in 1947. The place gets written up quite frequently in local press and travel guides; the various touches in this country manor-style dining facility (floral drapes, horse paintings, stone hearth, silk red curtains) make the Milton Inn a destination restaurant for those who want a elegant, private meal in an intimate setting. Additionally, the wine list is extremely comprehensive (especially those from California), a legacy from when Robert Parker, wine critic extraordinaire, used the restaurant for private wine tastings.

The $20 prix-fixe lunch (appetizer/entree/dessert) is an outright bargain - if not a steal - for the selection, quality, and country surroundings. I had the salmon rose, a beautifully arranged rillette surrounded by colorful dollops of minced red onions, pungent, green capers, and a white creme fraiche with a horseradish kick. The brook trout was clearly a dinner-sized portion, light and flaky, topped with an earthy, mushroom cream sauce. Following the courses was a sufficiently large vanilla creme brulee, topped with a trio of blueberry, blackberry, and raspberry.

I would have given this place a higher rating, but more contemporary restaurants like Woodberry Kitchen and The Charleston have far surpassed the Milton Inn in its execution of American-Continental cuisine...but then again, there is something to be said for upholding the Tidewater tradition.

Additionally, service was uneven in several instances. The lunchtime server couldn't navigate her way through the wine by the glass list, and had to ask the sommelier about the cheapest viognier. Likewise, the dessert followed the main course an uncomfortable 15 minutes after the main course.