La Boite a Epice

La Boite a Epice
724 11th Ave
Manhattan, NY 10019

1/11/2011

Accustomed to seeing containers of salt and pepper underneath supermarket lights, one would find it difficult to imagine why countries in the Middle Ages would risk life and coin for the pursuit of mere condiments. However, taking a whiff of the fresh aromatics of Lior Lev Sercarz's spice blends helps the modern-day gastronaut appreciate why they were some of the most expensive and in-demand products of ancient times.

Although the grossly inconvenient weekday hours and long brisk walk from the subway impede a trip by the weary to La Boite a Epice, the more adventurous will be greatly rewarded. The gallery/kitchen storefront is rather modest, with a stainless steel kitchen counter for preparation of spices along the left-hand side of the room and a display of previous year's biscuit tins in the display window.

However, upon entering, this former Daniel chef will put on a spice display that is completely mind-blowing. From a bunch of plastic containers, Lior will pull out one-by-one blends for you to sample and perhaps taste. First was Amber No. 2, a mixture of ancho, annatto, mace, and brown sugar, with a sweet and pungently smoky flavor that trumps any BBQ blend. No. 18 was Smoked Cinnamon, which smells exactly as described, but with the aroma of musky, heady perfume. Lastly, was No. 33 Mishmish, a blend of crystallized honey, lemon, and saffron that smelled like the breeze of summer tradewinds.

La Boite a Epice's spice blends are already an open secret among professional chefs, with Corton's Paul Liebrandt, Fatty Cue's Zak Pelaccio, and Daniel Boulud among clients; in fact , No. 28 Vadouvan was one of the spices that Frank Bruni raved about in his dishes in his 4-star review of Daniel in 2009 before his retirement. A secret less well known is that these spices have made their way into mixologists' cocktail programs, such as Summit Bar, Daniel, and Zahav in Philadelphia.

Following the lead of intrepid ancient explorers and inventive modern-day chefs and bartenders, I look forward to incorporating Amber No. 2 in a rub for a pork loin that I'll pair with a smoky Bloody Mary.